UNC student gets rare glimpse of life in Cuba

Alist of the most publicized events in the relationship between Cuba and the United States — communism, Castro, the Bay of Pigs invasion, the Cuban Missile Crisis, the deportation of Elian Gonzalez and a current embargo against the island nation — reads like a history book outline or a verse from Billy Joel's song "We Didn't Start the Fire." But as a local student recently discovered, there is much more to Cuba.

Caitlin Ross, of Freehold Township, spent a semester studying in Cuba. She said one of the most interesting aspects of her experience was how Cubans differentiate between the American people and the American government. Caitlin Ross, 21, of Freehold Township, spent the spring college semester living, studying and traveling in what is to many people a forbidden country.

Ross, a graduate of the Freehold Regional High School District's International Studies program at Freehold Township High School, is a Spanish and international relations major at the University of North Carolina, Chapel Hill. Earlier this year she had the rare opportunity to live and study in Cuba.

UNC's study abroad program to Cuba is highly selective with a strict cap of 14 students. This is only the fifth year the university has run the program.

"As soon as I found out about the Cuba program, I made it my goal to get accepted," Caitlin said. "This was a oncein a-lifetime opportunity."

The American government's ongoing sanctions against Cuba make it very difficult, and often impossible, for personal travel to the island, as Caitlin's parents discovered.

"My mom's birthday was in March and she was really excited about the prospect of spending it in Cuba visiting me," Ross explained.

However, her parents were unable to secure permission to travel to Cuba.

Ross said one of the most interesting aspects of her experience was the way the Cubans differentiate between the American people and the American government.

Despite the U.S. sanctions that affect Cuba's economy, "the Cubans love America and were extremely warm when they discovered I was American," Ross said.

She lived with her fellow UNC students in a large Havana residence called "El Castillar de Rocinante." There they had cable television, a slow Internet connection, and breakfast and dinner provided.

Ross described Havana as a mix of older Communist-style buildings and privately owned modern high-rises. There was evidence of an influx of American culture, but the city was distinctly Cuban.

Havana is far and away the largest city in Cuba and a popular tourist destination for Canadians and Europeans. The income from tourism has led to the growth of the private sector.

"It was odd to see a BMW dealership in a Communist country; it was definitely for the tourists," Ross added.

During her visit, Fidel Castro resigned as Cuba's president after almost 50 years as the head of his nation's government.

"This was a big deal for us as Americans, but for the Cubans it was merely a formality," she explained.

By the time he stepped down, Castro, who had been ill for quite some time, was primarily a figurehead, having already designated most of his authority to his brother, Raul.

The Cuban citizens are hopeful that Raul Castro will bring change; he has already begun easing Fidel's restrictions by lifting a ban on cell phones and personal computers.

Cuban culture is saturated in dance, particularly salsa, which is part of the country's appeal to Ross, who is a longtime Irish step dancer.

"Cuba is an epicenter for Latin music, dance and culture. I just love the flavor of the country," she said.

The greatest confluence of cultures occurred on St. Patrick's Day when the sound of bagpipes led to Caitlin step dancing outside a restaurant for a group of intrigued Cuban onlookers.

"I'm sad that I can't just go back whenever I want, but I hope that in the future our government will make it possible. If not, Miami may be the next closest thing," she said.